Nº D-10719
Overlapping-flap lid with a press-down round button lock.
Made for: Fashion & retail.
Sample printed on ivory (C1S board) 300 gsm, matte lamination; style: folding carton (choose lid and bottom style – ECMA code).
Sample size 160 × 110 × 40 mm.
A tuck box variant is a one-piece tuck end carton with an extra structural detail: a lid lock (thumb notch, slit lock, tongue into slot, tab lock), a zipper tear strip, an angled opening, a flip cover, a neck lock shelf or a hang tab. Still one die cut and one glue line, like a plain tuck box.
Yes, commercial use included; Free adds a watermark grid at 1K, Pro exports 4K without it.
Yes — from the 160 × 110 × 40 mm sample or your own size, with the dieline redrawn.
Yes, with Pro: the die files (SVG, PDF / AI, DXF / CF2) and the CMYK print PDF; designing on the die is free.
The sample is ivory (C1S board) 300 gsm with matte lamination, on a dieline drawn at the size you type.
The body is still a four-panel tube closed by one side glue seam, with tuck ends top and bottom; what changes is the locking detail cut into the tuck, dust flaps or front panel — a thumb notch, slit-lock shoulders, a tongue-and-slot, a tab through a slit, a tear strip, a hang tab, a display board or a neck-holding insert. Each detail is only extra cuts, creases or holes on the same cutting die, so it adds no gluing step but makes the die more complex. The base can be a tuck, a 1-2-3 snap lock or a pre-glued auto-lock bottom depending on product weight.
Ivory board of 300–350 gsm is the default for medicine, cosmetics and small accessories; products over about 500 g, or boxes with tear strips and load-bearing locks, should move to 350–400 gsm or a tougher-fibred board such as SBS so lock teeth don't snap. Neck-lock inserts and double walls use roughly 20–40 % more board than a plain tuck box, so check sheet yield early. Open food boxes (bakery, produce, takeaway) need food-contact board or a greaseproof liner.
Matt or gloss lamination keeps tabs, slots and tear strips from fraying after repeated opening; foil, embossing and spot UV sit on the front as on any tuck box. Keep foil and embossing off tear lines, lock slits and the creases of tabs — the board stiffens and tears off-line or cracks. A PET window belongs on a panel that carries no locking detail.
Design on the exact dieline of the variant, with cut, crease and perforation (tear) lines on separate named colours so the die maker reads them. Keep type and logos at least 3 mm from thumb notches, lock slits and hang holes; on panels crossed by a tear strip, plan the layout so mandatory information stays on the part that remains. Add 3 mm bleed and leave the glue flap clear if it is machine-glued.
A round button cut in the top flap pushes down through a hole in the lower flap and catches at its shoulders; the box shuts firmly and reopens without a sticker.
The button keeps the lid flatter and firmer under stacking or in the post; the tongue opens faster but bulges with thicker contents.
A half-moon cut on the front panel edge where the thumb lifts the tuck flap; the box is otherwise a standard tuck end, and the notch is one extra cut on the die, so it adds almost nothing to production.
Usually two parallel perforated or zipper cuts made by the cutting die, with a pull tab at one end; some boxes add an applied tear tape for a cleaner pull. Tougher board gives a neater tear.
The body still has one side glue seam; tabs, tongue locks and C-locks only replace sealing the lid, so it stays shut without stickers or glue. Some variants are fully glueless, locking the side seam with a tab through a slit.